Field Dressing Birds

Proper dressing and handling of a downed bird begins before the bird ever hits the ground.  One has to be prepared for the hunt and must have a sharp hunting knife, a steel or whetstone, light rope of nylon cord, plastic bags, clean cloths and a cooler with ice.

It is important to field dress a downed bird promptly.  As soon as the bird is dead:

1.  Remove the entrails and crop as soon as possible, because the grain in the crop may ferment if not removed soon after death.  See specific directions below.

2.  The heart and liver may be saved for giblets.  Store them in a plastic bag on ice to keep them clean and cold.

3.  The birds may be plucked or skinned in the field.

4.  Cool the carcasses quickly to retain flavor and maintain the quality of the bird.

5.  Wipe out the cavity with a clean cloth or paper towel.  Do not use grass or snow, as this will contaminate the caracass.

6.  Allow air to circulate in the carcass by hanging or laying the bird in a well-ventilated place.

7.  In hot weather, place the birds individually in plastic bags and put on ice.

8.  Do not pile warm birds in a mass.

9.  Store birds in a cooler of ice out of the sun.

Once you are ready to process the bird:

a.  When preparing upland birds, skin or pluck the bird and soak in cold water for one to two hours to remove the excess blood.

b.  Birds generally do not require aging.

c.  For immediate use, birds should be stored in the refrigerator and used within 3 days.

d.  For long term storage, the whole cleaned carcass or individual parts may be frozen.  Do not freeze birds without plucking and cleaning them first.


Skinning and Gutting Birds


1.  Wash your hands with soap and clean water before you begin to field dress your pheasant. This seems obvious, but many hunters forget to do this--and pay the price later.


2.  Put on your surgical gloves. This will prevent you from touching any bacteria. It will also prevent you from passing on bacteria to your pheasants, which will shortly be your dinner.


3.  Develop the habit of cleaning your knife frequently while dressing your pheasant. It only takes a second or two to wipe your knife on a clean cloth, and it could save your kill from being spoiled.

4.  Opt to skin your pheasant to field dress it in the shortest amount of time. Cut the bird horizontally across the upper breast area. Grasp the skin and pull it off with a slow, steady motion.

5.  Choose to pluck your bird to preserve the moistness of the meat for later cooking. Begin at the tail end of the bird and pull feathers out against the grain until only the head remains feathered.


6.  Cut the bird from the base of the neck to the legs.  Be careful not to cut into the internal organs while doing so.


7.  Pull open the cavity and carefully remove the organs. Try not to rupture any organs to protect your meat.


8.  Wipe out the cavity with a clean, dry cloth.

Large Birds

RED-TAILED HAWK


The Red-Tailed Hawk is a bird of prey and is commonly known in East Texas as a "chickenhawk," although it rarely preys on standard sized chickens.  They typically weigh between 1.5 - 3.5 pounds, measure 18-26 inches in length, and have a wingspan from 43-57 inches wide.

The Red-Tailed Hawk is numerous in the East Texas Pineywoods.  It is a protected species in the United States.  It's plumage can be variable, depending on the species and the region.  The basic appearance is consistent.  The underbelly is lighter than the back and a dark brown band across the belly, formed by horizontal streaks in feather patterning, is present in most color variations.  The red tail, which gives the species it's name, is uniformly brick-red above and pink below.  The bill is short and dark, in the hooked shape characteristic of raptors.  They have short, broad tails, and thick, chunky wings.

It's preferred habitat is mixed forest and field with high bluffs or trees that may be used as perch sites.    In flight, this hawk soars with wings in a slight dihedral, flapping as little as possible to conserve energy.  Active flight is slow and deliberate, with deep wing beats.  In wind, it occasionally hovers on beating wings and remains stationary above the ground.  When soaring or flapping it's wings, it typically travels from 20-40 mph, but when diving may exceed 120 mph.

The Red-Tailed Hawk is carnivorous, and an opportunistic feeder.  It's diet is mainly small mammals, but it also includes birds and reptiles.  Rodents compromise up to 85% of the hawks diet.  It typically hunts from an elevated perch site, swooping down from a perch to seize prey, catching birds while flying, or pursuing prey on the ground from a low flight.



EASTERN WILD TURKEY


The Eastern Wild Turkey is the same species as the domestic turkey.  Adults have long reddish-yellow to grayish-green legs and a black body.  Males, have a large, featherless, reddish head, red throat, and red wattles on the throat and neck.  The head has fleshy growths called caruncles.  Males have a long, dark, fan shaped tail and glossy bronze wings.  Females have feathers that are duller overall, in shades of brown and gray.  Males typically have a "beard," a tuft of coarse hair growing from the center of the breast.  Beards average 9 inches in length.  The adult male normally weighs 11-24 pounds and is 30-37 inches long.

Despite their weight, wild turkeys are agile fliers.  Their ideal habitat is open woodland where they may fly beneath the canopy top and find perches.  They fly close to the ground for no more than a quarter mile.

Wild Turkeys are omnivorous.  They prefer eating hard mast such as acorns, nuts, and various trees, seeds, berries, roots and insects.  They occasionally consume amphibians and small reptiles.  Turkey populations can reach large numbers in small areas because of their ability to forage for different types of food.  Early morning and late afternoon are the desired times for eating.



TURKEY VULTURE


The Turkey Vulture, also known as the Turkey Buzzard or just Buzzard inhabits a variety of open and semi-open areas including forests, shrubland, and pastures in East Texas.

The Turkey Vulture is a scavenger and feeds almost exclusively on carrion.  It finds its food using it's keen eyes and sense of smell, flying low enough to detect the gasses produced by the beginnings of the process of decomposition in dead animals.  In flight, it uses thermals to move through the air, flapping its winds infrequently.  It nests in caves, hollow trees, or thickets.  It is a large bird, with a wingspan of 63-71 inches, and a weight of up to 5 pounds.  The body feathers are mostly brownish-black.  The adults head is small in comparison to its body and is red in color with few to no feathers.  It also has a relatively short, hooked, ivory colored beak.  The irises are grey-brown; legs and feet are pink skinned, although typically stained white.

The Turkey Vulture is gregarious and roosts in large community groups, breaking away to forage independently during the day.  Several hundred may roost communally in groups.  It roosts on dead, leafless trees, and will also roost on manmade structures such as water or microwave towers.

This vulture is often seen standing in a spread-winged stance, which is thought to dry the winds, warm the body, and bake off bacteria.  It has few natural predators.

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Non-Poisonous Amphibians

EAST TEXAS TOAD


The East Texas Toad is fairly common, and average 2-3 inches in length.  It has a dark pectoral region breaking apart into dark spots to the belly, and cranial crests that go up behind the eye.  It has three or more warts in each large spot on the back surface.  It's color is generally a uniform yellowish-brown, brown, greenish-brown, or nearly black with many having an overlaying of reddish wash.

The East Texas Toad can be found along marshes and in deciduous woodlands as well as sandy areas near irrigation ditches and temporary rain pools.  It is dependent on rains, and their numbers peak in the spring and summer.



SOUTHERN DUSKY SALAMANDER


The Southern Dusky Salamander is mid-sized, reaching 3-5 inches.  It is a stout salamander with back legs slightly larger than the front.  A row of white spots, or "portholes" runs along each side, posterior to frong legs.  The tail is slightly flattened.  This species is variable in color but is generally dark brown to black, sometimes with a lighter patch running down the back.  The underside is often flecked with white dots.

The are found in murky areas in or near slow moving and stagnant streams, ponds and creek beds.  They are often found under cover such as branches, logs, or rocks.

The seldom stray far from water and feed mostly on aquatic invertebrates.  Breeding occurs in the fall.  Females lay from 9-20 eggs under rocks, logs, or leaf litter and females sometimes protect the eggs.  Eggs hatch in early fall and undergo metamorphosis the following spring.



STRECKERS CHORUS FROG


Strecker's Chorus Frog is a large, stout frog with its toes slightly webbed with disks at the tips.  Its colors vary from gray, brown, olive, to green ground cover.  It has a dark stripe through it's eye as well as a dark spot under it's eye, dark spots longitudinally along it's back, and deep yellow or orange coloration of the groin.  An adult can reach lengths between 1-1.5 inches.

Strecker's Chorus Frog is nocturnal, feeding on insects.  it can burrow into the soil with it's front limbs to shelter itself from heat and predation.

Breeding occurs during the fall and spring months.  Eggs are laid in water and attached to vegetation.  The frog is seen in moist woodland areas, rocky ravines, near streams in swamps and in cultivated fields.

Non-Venomous Reptiles

Most of the animals at the Hidey Hole are actually non-venomous.  Among the most common are:

TEXAS RAT SNAKE


The Texas Rat Snake is the largest snake found in Polk County, and can reach lengths over six feet.  When newly hatched, they are about 9 to 11 inches long and have a light gray background with brown saddle-shaped blotches running down the back and an arrowhead shaped pattern on top of the head.  They change color as they grow, however, and the pattern of adults is much more subdued.  The background color of an adult Texas Rat Snake will range from shades of brown to yellow and even orange, and the blotches are much less distinguishable in adults.  The top of the head also changes color - adult's heads are slate gray to black on top and white underneath.  This color scheme is an accurate identification method to use, because they are the only large snake in the Polk County area that has a head that is gray-black on top and a lighter colored body that had dark saddle-shaped blotches on the back.

Texas Rat Snakes are an ill-tempered snake if encountered in the wild, and will readily defend themselves.  This usually involves coiling up, raising the head, striking out repeatedly at anything that gets too close and vibrating the tail.  This vibrating of the tail often causes it to be mistaken for a rattlesnake; however, they do not have rattles and are NOT rattlesnakes.

As the name implies, the Texas Rat Snake's primary diet is mice and rats, causing them to be commonly seen in any place inhabited by rodents.  If bitten by a Texas Rat snake, you are in no medical danger.  Simply wash the area well with soap and water, and apply an antimicrobial topical agent - they can hardly break the skin.

Texas Rat Snakes are sometimes referred to as "chicken snakes," because they are occasionally seen in or around chicken coops.  Although they are often thought to eat chickens and eggs, this is not the case if adequate rodents are around.



YELLOW BELLIED WATER SNAKE


The Yellowbelly Water Snake is the harmless snake most often incorrectly confused with a Cottonmouth (Water Moccasin).  This is because of it's generally dark coloration and it's irritable disposition.  When threatened, they will coil up and flatten out their head, making it look arrowhead shaped.  They also vibrate their tail, let out large amounts of foul smelling musk which smells like a skunk, and strikes out repeatedly at whatever is threatening them.  A bite from a Yellowbellied Water Snake involves no more than soap and water and a bandaid.

One way of differentiating this snake from the deadly Cottonmouth, is that water snakes do not have the wide, dark "raccoon mask" facial stripe seen on the Cottonmouth.

Yellowbellied Water Snakes are often found in meadows and will seek cool, dark places when attempting to find new water sources.  They will also be found where there are lots of frogs and toads, as this is their preferred meal.



TEXAS BROWN SNAKE


The Texas Brown Snake is a very common snake found throughout East Texas, and is highly variable in color, ranging from browns to tans and even brick reds.  The color of the Texas Brown Snake is fairly even, though, with the exception of a faint lighter stripe down the middle of the back.  Additionally, the top of the head and the corners of the mouth are darker in color.  These "dark spots" on the sides of the head can resemble large eyes when the head if flattened out.  This makes these small harmless snakes seem larger and more dangerous than they really are, since hatchlings are the size of an earthworm, and even adults are no more than 13 inches long.

Texas Brown Snakes are completely harmless if encountered, but will readily feign aggressiveness to defend themselves.  This usually involves coiling up, raising the head, striking out repeatedly at anything that gets too close and vibrating the tail.  This is just an act to get larger animals to leave them alone, however, since they generally strike with their mouths closed, and their mouths aren't large enough to grab human skin even if they tried.

Texas Brown Snakes can be found just about anywhere there is a cool dark moist bit of soil.  They eat a wide variety of suitably sized insects and other invertebrates, including snails and slugs, making them a gardner's friend.

Infusions

An infusion is a large amount of herb brewed for a long time.  Typically, one ounce by weight (about a cup in volume) of dried herb is placed in a quart jar which is then filled to the top with boiling water, tightly lidded and allowed to steep for 4-10 hours.  the remaining stems, leaves, and flowers are then strained.  Although dried herbs are generally considered best for infusions, fresh can be used as well.

It is a very simple chemical process, much like making tea.  It is done with botanicals that dissolve readily in water.

Decoctions

Decoction is a method of extraction, by boiling, of dissolved chemicals and herbal/plant material, which may include stems, roots, bark, and rhizomes.  Decoction involves first mashing, then boiling water to extract oils, organic compounds, and other chemical substances.  The process can also be applied to meats and vegetables to prepare bouilon or stock.

The decoction is the name for the resulting liquid.

It is generally used to extract fluids from harder materials such as roots and bark.

Decoction, is a term for an infusion which has been reduced to one-half its volume by slow evaporation.  Decoctions keep longer than infusions, and the smaller dose required makes it more easily administered.  It is an excellent way to prepare an herb with a terrible taste.  Since decoctions are made by evaporation, the volatile essences are water soluble vitamins in the leaves, flowers and seeds would be lost in the process.  This is why it us generally used for roots and barks.

• Begin by straining the plant material out of the infusion and discarding it.
• Measure the liquid.
• Heat the liquid until it begins to steam; this is before it simmers and long before it boils.
• Stand right there and watch for the steam to start rising. When it does, turn the heat down very low.
• Steam until the liquid is reduced to half or one-quarter of what it was in the beginning. A little stainless steel pan with measuring marks on the side is of invaluable assistance in this process, but you can also judge by the mark left on the side of the pan as the liquid level falls. Or you can measure it.
• Pour the decoction into a clean or sterile bottle.
• Label with the contents, strength, and date. Example: Simple decoction of Witch Hazel bark, Dec. '84.
• Optional: Add one tablespoon of brandy or spirit per four ounces of decoction.
• Cap well
• Cool at room temperature, then store in the refrigerator. Some decoctions may keep for as long as a year, others ferment and sour within a few months.
  Dosage: A simple decoction is four times as potent as an infusion. One cup (8 ounces) of infusion is equal to one-quarter cup (2 ounces) of a simple decoction. Use up to one tablespoon for an infant.
  Double decocting increases the strength of the infusion by a factor of sixteen (four times four). So the dose equivalent of one 8 ounce cup is only one tablespoon (1/2 ounce). The usual infant dose is half a teaspoon of double decoction.

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Medicinal Plants

ALOE VERA


Overview:  Anyone growing up in Texas along the Gulf Coast knows what Aloe Vera is.  As a kid, we would rub it all over our skin, and even eat it.  If you don't know what Aloe Vera is, you ain't from 'round here.

Uses:  Antibacterial, antifungal, spermicidal, aniviral, emmolient, relieves constipation, and soothes burns and rashes, particularly sunburn and poison ivy.

Where Found:  Grows well in areas with little sun and strongly prefers shade, so it will grow well near the creek beds.  It's quick to die out in freezing weather.

Identifier:  Perinneal, succulent plant.  Leaves are thick and fleshy with small serrations along the edges.  Flowers come from within the basal leaves and shoot up a cluster of flowers that can very from red to yellow.  Plant get 1-2 feet tall.

Harvesting:  As needed; fresh is best for all applications, as the gel dries out quickly.

Preparation:  Harvest the leaves and cut into the inner gel layers for topical use.  Small amounts can be ingested for constipation.



WILD ONION

Overview:  Take care to distinguish onions from toxic similar plants, such as Crow Poison, which looks very similar.  Never gather plants that lack the distinct smell of onion.  Don't let musky odors of the toxic look-alikes fool you.  Crow poison's white to cream colored flowers distinguish it from wild onion.

Uses:  Raw, peeled bulbs for colds; Infusion of ground cloves for sore throat; juice from cloves as topical antibacterial.

Where Found:  Wild onion can be found at the Hidey-Hole in limited quantities.  It is most commonly found on the western side of the creek.  It is abundant in the East Texas area.

Identifiers:  Leaves and bulbs have a distinct oniony odor.  Leaves are basal and linear, like tall blades of grass.  Most Texas species bloom in the spring. Six tepals form small flowers that can be yellow, pink, red, or purple.  Flowers occur in umbels at the top of the slender flower stalk and may stand erect or nodding.  Seeds are black and wrinkled.  Some are in abundance along stream banks.

Harvesting:  Typically best in spring.

Preparation:  Seep raw onion bulbs in hot water for several minutes to create a tea.

CATTAIL

Overview:  Although there appears to be no cattails growing directly at the Hidey-Hole, there are ample cattails growing in and around the ponds and streams in the surrounding parcels of land.  Cattails are highly useful, both for food and medicinal uses.

Uses:  Gel from sheethed shoot has anti-inflammatory properties; pollen from female flower has antiseptic properties; young flower heads eaten raw can treat diarrhea.

Where Found:  Both fresh and brackish water, along ponds and streams, ditches and marshes.

Identifiers:  Tall, grasslike leaves are easy to spot protruding from the water.  Beware of a toxic, lookalike called a Water Iris.  It is difficult to tell the difference, but to determine, break off a piece of the plant from the root.  Cattail stalks are almost perfectly round, whereas Water Iris is more oddly shaped at the base.  Second, each individual leaf is wrapped completely around the base stalk with a Cattail, and it is more layered with a Water Iris.

Harvesting:  Various parts of the cattail can be harvested and utilized year-round.

Preparation:  Collect pollen from the female flower into a paper bag, and use the powder as an antiseptic powder.  The gel from a sheathed shoot can also be utilized as an anti-inflammatory.



MULLEIN


Overview:  Mullein is a biennial wildflower.  The first year, the plant produces a basal rosette of large velvety leaves.  The second year, the plant produces a flowering stalk up to 6 feet tall.  It grows across East Texas and is generally available all year long.

Uses:  Leaf and flower infusion is an expectorant and antiviral; Poultice from the leaf has anti-inflammatory properties; leaf gauze can be used on minor cuts.

Where Found:  Sunny fields.

Identifiers:    Leaves are all basal with semi rugged edges.  stem and seed pod is long.

Harvesting:  As available all year long.

Preparation:  Poultice:  Macerate the leaves into a mush and apply directly.  Leaves and flowers can be steeped raw in hot water to create a tea which will be applied internally and topically.



YARROW


Overview:  Used by native Americans for centuries for rashes and for hemostasis.

Uses:  Fresh or dried leaves can be used to help clot blood; leaf infusion can be used to induce sweating and reduce fever, Decoction/oil mixture repels insects, and gargle infusion can help sore throat.

Where Found:  Although the plant does grow in Texas and East Texas, it doesn't grow terribly well.  There is none known to be growing at the Hidey-Hole, but has been seen in surrounding properties.

Identifiers:  Grows to three feet tall.  No branches except near the top.  Leaves alternate and are 3-5 inches long with many leaflets on each side of midrib and further divided into smaller leaflets, giving it a delicate fern-like, lacy appearance.  Flower heads arranged in large compact clusters at top of the stem, each cluster consisting of 1 or more flower heads.  Flower has 20-25 yellowish-white ray flowers and similarly colored disk flowers.

Harvesting:  Year round, as available.

Preparation:  To make an infusion, crush and chop the leaves and flowers and and allow to seep in a cup of hot water.


Other medicinal plants that are available in the area, but not at the Hidey-Hole include:

Willow
Bloodroot
Mint

Hidey-Hole Wild Edibles

There are many types of wild edibles that can be found on and near our land.  Some things to keep in mind:

a.  Collecting and living off of wild edibles is very hard work and involves a great deal of time in exchange for a meager amount of food.
b.  Collect only a small percentage of the available "crop," leaving enough to continue production.
c.  Digging up tubers and roots kills the entire plant, so harvest them sparingly unless the plants grow in abundance.
d.  Moderation is the key.  Some wild foods have unpleasant side effects in over indulgence.
e.  Certain wild foods can cause severe toxicity if  eaten in large amounts.
f.  DONT EAT ANY WILD WEED UNTIL YOU POSITIVELY CONFIRM IT'S IDENTITY.



DANDELION


Overview:  The common dandelion provides one of the best-tasting and most nutritious wild vegetables in East Texas.

Where found:  Sunny, open areas, meadows, pastures.

Identifiers:  Tap rooted; can be annual or perennial.  Jagged toothed, pinnately lobed leaves, which form a basal rosette.  All leaves originate from the base.  The solitary yellow flower head emerges from the center of the rosette on a leafless hollow stem several inches tall.  About 1-1.5 inches across, the rounded head consists solely of ray flowers.  The plant has milky white sap.  Round seed heads are unmistakable.

Edible Parts:  Everything on the Dandelion is edible.

Harvesting:  Can remove leaves, or entire plant, including root.  If you do not remove the root, the plant will grow back fairly quickly.

Preparation:All parts of the plant can be eaten raw, or simply boiled like other vegetables.  The leaves are best when they are young.  The only factor to consider is that of bitterness.  Dandelion, like most other edible wild grasses, is bitter, although not terribly so.  Most of the bitterness can be cooked out of the vegetable by boiling for approximately 20 minutes, and doing at least 2 water changes during cooking time.  The downside to this is that by changing out water, you are throwing away many of the vitamins and nutrients that cook out of the plant and into the water.

Non-Food Uses:  Dyes (light yellow from flowers and light tan from roots).  Not the best choice for dyes.

Medicinal Uses:  Although listed as a medicinal plant at one time in the US Pharmacopoeia, there are known confirmed medicinal uses, other than use for it's nutritional value.  The Chinese used an extract of the root as a diuretic, antibacterial and anti-fungal agent, but chemical analysis leads to questionability of use for this.

PIGWEED

Overview:  Pigweed, considered a nuisance plant, makes a great salad, and is readily available in East Texas.  There are some 20 species of Pigweed in Texas, and all of them are edible, although their bitterness varies from species to species.  The plant is seeing a comeback in the United States, but under it's formal name (Amaranth) in restaurants, and health food stores.  The characteristics that cause them to become problem weeds are the same characteristics that make them so attractive as crops.  They grow quickly and produce seeds prolifically.  They are pretty drought tolerant and grow in a variety of soil and lighting conditions.  They are fast growing plants and large enough for use as green vegetables in four to six weeks.  In Texas, the greens can be harvested several times in one season.

Where Found:  Damned near every field has Pigweed.  It grows especially dense along the western side of the Hidey-Hole in plentiful abundance.  Look in open, sunny fields and pastures.

Identifiers:  Because there are so many species specific to Texas, characteristics very from species to species  They vary from small prostrate herbs to large plants several feet tall.  Oval to lance-shaped leaves alternate on the stem, and the midribs and veins protrude noticeably from the bottom of the leaves.  Leaves and stems vary from hairy to smooth in texture.  The inconspicuous flowers grow clustered together in dense spikes that protrude from the axils of the leaves and may droop rather sadly from the top of the plant.  Though most plants are green, some may have a red or purple tinge on the flower petals, bracts, and branches.

Edible Parts:  Greens, stems, seeds.  Best when young, as the stems and leaves become more fibrous and bitter as the plant ages.

Harvesting:  Dig up the whole plant before the flowers emerge.  You can use the root, leaves, and the flower buds tucked away at the crown of the root.  Though available year round, the plants are best from late fall to early spring.  If you collect the leaves and buds when they are very young, you can use them raw in salads.  If too bitter, boil.

Preparation:The young plants and growing tips of older plants make nutritious vegetables, and can either be eaten raw, or boiled.  It is generally acceptable to do 2 water changes over a 20 minute boiling time, to help cut down on the bitterness, and remove any visible spines that may be present.  You can continuing the boiling until the bitterness is reduced.  Serve with butter and lemon.

Pigweed seeds can be eaten raw, cooked into grits-like consistency, or ground into flour.

Non-Food Uses:  Red flower spikes will make light red dye

Medicinal Uses:  None known.



SOW THISTLE


Overview:  Commonly thought of as nuisance weeds in gardens and yards.  Provides a reasonable, though bitter, potherb.  Hardy plant.  After buds form, the plants become too bitter to eat.

Where Found:  Gardens, open yards.  Young plants can pop up anytime of year, but prefer more fair to warmer weather.

Identifiers:  Alternate leaves clasp a stem, thickly covering it.  Flexible prickles tip the teeth of the pinnately lobed leaves.  Flower heads top a leafy stalk that is usually less than 2 feet tall, but may reach 6 feet.  The yellow flowers and the ball of seeds attached to feathery parachutes resemble the flowers and seeds of dandelions, but sow thistle seeds are smaller, usually less than 1 inch across.

Edible Parts:  Young basal leaves preferable.  Young shoots.  After flower forms, plant generally is too bitter to eat, even with water exchanges.

Harvesting:  Collect young basal leaves from fall to spring, but young parts can be harvested as the plant will grow.

Preparation:  If collected early enough in the plants life, the leaves can be eaten raw.  More likely, one will want to boil them briefly in 1-3 changes of water to reduce bitterness.  You can mix them with other greens and serve with butter/lemon.  Young shoots can be prepared as a cooked or steamed vegetable.

Non-Food Uses:  None Known.

Medicinal Uses:  Although no known studies exist on the chemical constituents, Sow Thistle has been used as a cathartic and worm eliminator.



OAK ACORNS


Overview:  A primary food source among Texas native Americans.  They ground the nuts up for flour, made oil for cooking, and ate the nuts raw, with some advance preparation.  In fact, preparing a few pounds of acorn flour or raw acorns for consumption requires hours of labor.  The flour makes a rich flavor.

Where Found:  Throughout East Texas.  The Hidey-Hole has several Oaks dispersed throughout, but is perhaps only 5% of the timber available.

Identifier:  Oaks are shrubs or trees with alternate, simple leaves.  Most oak trees are lobed, but the leaves of some (live oak) are mostly entire.  Texas has 40 species of oaks, and differentiation can be quite difficult.  Dead oak leaves cling to the branches throughout the winter.  Live oaks maintain their green throughout the winter, and drop their leaves in the spring, just before new growth emerges.  In the winter, a cluster of buds at the branch tips is a good clue that you are looking at an oak.  Male flowers occur in dropping catkins loaded with pollen; female catkins are so small as can go unnoticed.  The pollinated female flowers develop into acorns in one or two years.

Edible Parts:  Acorn nuts.

Harvesting:  Collect off the ground, or spread a tarp under the tree and shake the limbs.  Use the ripe acorns, with tan to brown shells, not the green ones.  Collect three times as many as you think you will need - expect at least half of them to be molded or infested with insects.  Shell the acorns as you would any nut.

Preparation:  Shell acorns and remove kernels.  If a thin brown corky layer clings to the light colored flesh, peel off the layer.  Toss nuts into a large pot, and cover with plenty of water.  Bring nuts to a boil, then boil for about 15 minutes.  The water will turn brown, as the tannic acid is excreted.  This water can be used for dye.  Throw out this water and replace it with fresh water.  Re-boil the acorns several times in this method, until the water no longer turns brown.  The boiling process takes two to three hours generally.

When finished, the acorns will no longer taste bitter, and will have turned a darker brown.  Spread them out and allow them to dry.  Tastes better with slight roasting.

Non-Food Uses:  Tannin dye as described above.

Medicinal Uses:  None known from the acorn.  The inner bark of the oak have had some value in the past as an astringent.



WILD ONION


Overview:  Take care to distinguish onions from toxic similar plants, such as Crow Poison, which looks very similar.  Never gather plants that lack the distinct smell of onion.  Don't let musky odors of the toxic look-alikes fool you.  Crow poison's white to cream colored flowers distinguish it from wild onion.

Where Found:  Wild onion can be found at the Hidey-Hole in limited quantities.  It is most commonly found on the western side of the creek.  It is abundant in the East Texas area.

Identifiers:  Leaves and bulbs have a distinct oniony odor.  Leaves are basal and linear, like tall blades of grass.  Most Texas species bloom in the spring. Six tepals form small flowers that can be yellow, pink, red, or purple.  Flowers occur in umbels at the top of the slender flower stalk and may stand erect or nodding.  Seeds are black and wrinkled.  Some are in abundance along stream banks.

Edible Parts:  Bulbs and leaves.

Harvesting:  Typically best in spring.

Preparation:  Use in any recipe calling for onions - salads, soups, stews, meat dishes, casseroles, etc.  Wild onions will have a stronger flavor than store-bought, so use sparingly.

Non-Food Uses:  Skins of cultivated yellow and red onions can be used as dye.

Medicinal Uses:  Roots are thought to be antiseptic.




WILD BLACKBERRY


Overview:  Abundant in East Texas and at the Hidey-Hole.

Where Found:  Forests, thickets, along streams.

Identifiers:  Unmistakable blackberry look.  There are nearly a dozen species in East Texas alone.  Prickly hairs and spines cover the vines and shoots.  Shrubbery with arching shoots.  Preceded by white flowers which turn to fruit.

Edible Parts:  Fruit.  Leaves can be made into tea.

Harvesting:  Abundant in late spring and early summer.  Not resistant to high heat/drought.

Preparation:  Can be eaten raw or made into juice or jams.

Non-Food Uses:  Fruits can be made into dyes.

Medicinal Uses:  None known.



PURSLANE


Overview:  Another common weed in East Texas thought to be a nuisance plant, but with beneficial purpose.  It should be noted that purslane binds up calcium in the body, so if you are eating a diet which is low in calcium, you may want to steer clear of purslane.

Where Found:  Lawns, fields, cracks in sidewalks.  Prefers sunny, hot areas.  No soil preference; can grow in sand.

Identifiers:  A low growing annual.  Produces numerous prostrate and erect succulent stems, and it's fleshy leaves alternate on the stem.  Simple leaves are 1/4 - 1 inch in length.  Flowers are small.

Edible Parts:  Stems and leaves.

Harvesting:  Best in the hot season, when other edible plants have wilted.

Preparation:  Chop up fresh leaves and stems for salad.  Use entire above ground plant boiled, steamed, fried, or pickled.  Juice from stems makes good thickener for soups.

Non-Food Uses:  Unknown.

Medicinal Uses:  Unknown.



CLEAVERS


Overview:  Known as bedstraw in these parts, with a variety of species in Texas.

Where Found:  Slopes in woods, abandoned fields, along shorelines.

Identifiers:  A trailing annual which covers large patches of ground.  Stiff, prickly hairs cover the leaves, stems, and fruits.  Square stems are lined with whorls of six to eight leaves.  Usually the linear leaves are less than one inch long, but have been known to grow as long as 3 inches.  Tiny white flowers.

Edible Parts:  Leaves and stems.

Harvesting:  Late fall to summer.

Preparation:  Place tender leaves/stems in pot with small amount of water, simmer for 10 minutes, and serve with butter and lemon.  Can be mixed with other greens.  Prickly hairs make swallowing raw difficult, but can be quickly boiled to address.  Younger plants are preferable, as older become more fibrous.

Non-Food Uses:  Stuffing for beds, pallets, etc.  Thought to yield a reddish dye, but because the roots are so thin, it's probably hardly worth the effort to collect enough when other possibilities are more plentiful.

Medicinal Uses:  Tea has been known to be a diuretic and mild laxative.  Cool tea has also been known to soothe sunburn.

Improvised Bandaging and Splinting

Bandages, splints, and slings can be improvised from many sources that are readily available, even in the wilderness.  Splints can be improvised from boards, sticks, tree limbs, or even the human body itself.  If nothing else is available, a chest wall can be used to immobilize a fractured arm, and a healthy leg can be used to immobilize a fractured leg.

Bandages can be made from belts, bandoliers, kerchiefs, strips of cloth from clothing or blankets.  To cut strips out of a shirt, cut thin strips in a circular fashion around the shirt, starting at the bottom to make long, continuous strips.

Slings can be improvised from shirt tails, a coat, or pieces torn from blankets.

Be creative, and look at things in ways other than their design.  Packs, pads, clothing, camp chairs, tents, duct tape - anything that can provide some support.  A few items will make the job easier:

a.  Something to tie stuff with.  The old standby for this is a cravat (a large triangular piece of fabric) which could be used to make slings and swaths much easier, and could be spread out over a large area, making a splint more comfortable.

b.  A rigid sheet of anything.  A foam sleeping pad, an Alice Pack frame will do nicely.

c.  Splint in the position of function; in he position thats comfortable and natural.  For an upper extremity injury that generally means holding the injured are in towards the chest at a 90 degree angle.  for lower body injury, strive to make the splint as comfortable as possible and in line with the victim's body.

d.  Use ALOT of padding.

e.  The splint should be adjustable to allow for swelling, etc.  Use release knots (think shoelaces) so splint knots will be easier to untie and retie if need be.

f.  Fingers and toes should be accessible.  You don't want to  make matters worse by cutting off circulation, sensation, or motion.  Check for circulation by having victim wiggle toes/fingers, checking for color and capillary refill, skin color and temperature.


ARM SPLINTS


Inner Splint  An inner splint (semi-rigid sheet closest to the actual injury helps, but isn't strictly necessary in all cases.  When using any foreign object as a splint, always make sure to put a layer of padding between the splint and the arm, and wrap a layer of clothing around the extremity before applying splint to the extremity.  Make sure you put a layer of padding between the splint and the arm, and wrap a layer of clothing around the arm before applying the splint to the arm.

Secure the splint to the arm by tying cravats or by wrapping fabric, gauze, ace bandage, strips of cloth, etc from the back of the hand all the way to the elbow.  Make sure the splint supports the hand, and that there is something in the hand to hold, such as a rolled up bit of cloth.  Be sure to wrap the cravat, etc over the back of the hand, then between the thumb and first finger, then back under the splint.  This helps secure the hand to the splint and prevents the wrist from  flopping around.

Sling:  Take a cravat and tie an overhand knot a few inches from the apex of the triangle.  This creates a pocket for the elbow to sit in.  Have the victim put his/her hand over their heart, is if they were saying the Pledge of Allegiance.  Pass the sling around the elbow, tying the two swath ends together around the shoulder.  Pad under the knot.

Swath.  Tie a cravat (or wrap strips of fabric, etc) around the injured arm and secure it to the other side of the body.  The swath should be fairly low (covering the person's elbow), and the wider the better.  No chicken winging should be possible.  Pad under any knots as these will become uncomfortable pressure points during a long evac.

Variations:  For upper arm injury, put splint on the upper arm and secure it with cravats.  Make sure to tie one above and one below the injury, not on the injury itself (this could be very painful.  Now make a sling, but do not support the patient's elbow.  Goal should be to gently support the forearm, but let gravity pull the upper arm a bit, providing a gentle traction.  Finish off with double swaths, which should immobilize the shoulder.

For collarbone injuries, just make a sling and swath; no inner splint is required.

LEG AND ANKLE SPLINTING


The first thing you will need to determine is whether the injury is usable or unusable by determining whether the victim can bear weight.

Usable knee injuries:  A good splint for usable knee injury limits lateral motion of the knees but still allows for a bit of flex, which makes walking possible.  A sleeping bag, pad, or even a tent fly folder over itself many times will make a good frame for a knee splint.  Constructing lower extremity splint is easiest with two people.

1.  Splint should extend part way up the thigh and part way down the lower leg.  The length will partially depend on the extent of the knee injury.  The more severe, the longer you will want to make the splint.
2.  Place cravats, cloth strips, gauze, etc, under the splint so they're ready to be used.
3.  Pad the splint.
4.  Move the splint under the victims leg and have helper bend the splint around the leg.  Pad any void spaces and under the knee.  Keeping a slight bend in the knee from the start makes the splint slightly articulated and keeps the splint much more comfortable for the victim.
5.  Bend the splint around the knee, creating a frame, and secure the splint with cravats.  Keep the cravats as wide as possible over the leg and avoid placing a cravat over the knee itself.  All knots should be on the outside of the leg.

The splint for an ankle depends on how severe it is.  Often by simply leaving a boot on and having the patient walk carefully with a trekking pole is all that is required.  If the ankle injury is more severe:

1.  Pad the patient's ankle.  Cut out a piece of foam pad or other rigid item for an inner splint.  This splint should extend from just above the bottom of the heel to mid-calf.

2.  The ankle hitch secures the splint to the foot.  Lay a long cravat (or two tied together) in an S-shape over the front of the ankle.  Pull the tails of the S around the back of the ankle and through the newly created loops.  Tighten the hitch by pulling down on both ends, then tie the ends of the cravat together on the outside of the foot.  There should not be a stirrup on the instep of the patient's boot.

3.  Wrap up the splint (from ankle to calf) with cravats act, etc.



Unusable leg injuries (knee injuries, lower leg injuries):  Unusable knee injuries require a longer, stiffer splint that immobilizes the ankle.

1.  Follow the same procedure above as the usable injury example, but this time, the splint should extend to the upper thigh several inches below the crotch and down past the foot.  Again, a foam sleeping pad is excellent for this.

2.  Apply the splint following the same procedure as in the usable knee injury example.  Place a cravat at the bottom of the pad, and roll the cravat up into the pad until you hit the patient's foot.  Now, bend the ends of the pad up and tie them together with the cravat (or any type of lashing), creating a boot.  Thread another cravat through the one that you just tied and secure this one around the ankle.

3.  Pad any gaps around the ankle, and finish by wrapping an ace or a few more cravats around the lower part of the splint.

Causes and Treatment of Blisters

Blisters are defined as a small pocket of fluid on the upper layers of skin.  It is a defense mechanism of the body that builds between the epidermis and dermis.  Fluid buildup in this pocket serves as a "cushion," protecting the skin tissue underneath until it heals and new skin is re-created.  They can be quite painful.

Blisters are caused by burning (mostly sunburns and thermal burns), chemical exposure, freezing, infection, or friction (the most common).  The most common friction blister is caused by shoes, particular ill-fitting or shoes that are inappropriate for the intended use.

The best treatment for blisters is to prevent them altogether, wearing well-fitting shoes, keeping feet dry, and wearing socks that manage moisture.

Blisters commonly do not require medical intervention, and will heal on their own.

Treatment


1.  Find and address the cause of the irritation.

2.  May place a bandage over the blister to help prevent further irritation.

3.  An emollient may be applied to keep the skin soft as it heals.  Aloe Vera is an excellent herbal intervention.

4.  Soaking the blister in warm water helps with pain relief.

5.  It is crucial to keep the blister unbroken and intact, and to allow the blister to break naturally.

6.  Keep a close eye on the blister for signs/symptoms of infection.

Preparing Herbal Extracts for Insect Stings

Plantain Salve


Plantain leaves can be broken up and applied directly, or can be prepared into a salve.

1.  Finely chop Plantain leaves (lots of them).

2.  Slowly add warm water in very small amounts to begin making a gooey dark green salve.

This salve does not store well; it's best to prepare it fresh each time you use it.



Jewelweed Extract


1.  Collect a reasonable amount of fresh plant while it is in bloom (best May through October).

2.  Break up the plant and cover it with water in a pot.  Boil for approximately 20 minutes or until water has turned a murky-orange-red color.

3.  Strain the jewelweed plant from the liquid and pour into a jar.

Freeze if possible.  If not, prepare fresh batch each time used.



Lavender Oil


1.  Pour approximately 300 cc olive or other oil into jar.

2.  Stir in 8 tablespoons lavender flowers.

3.  Cover tightly and leave the mixtures for 48 hours on a sunny windowsill, shaking well every 12 hours.

4.  Lay piece of muslin over the bowl and strain the oil.

5.  Put oil back into the jar and add 8 tablespoons fresh lavender flowers.  Put back on windowsill in sun for 48 hours, shaking well every 12 hours.

6.  Repeat until you get a strong aroma from the oil.

7.  After the final strain, put the oil into a dark glass bottle for storage.

Hemostasis (Controlling Bleeding)

There are several ways to control bleeding.  Before tackling this, however, one must differentiate between simple "bleeding" and true hemorrhage.  Bleeding in and of itself is not necessarily life-threatening.  In fact, it can actually be helpful, in that the outward flow of blood from most venous cuts will actually help to clean the wound with minimal loss of blood volume.  One needs to keep in mind that a little blood on the right surface can look like way more than it actually is.

The following methods are known to be effective in controlling bleeding.  One must always use the least risky method to control bleeding.

Direct Pressure


The most common and generally most successful method for controlling bleeding, whether venous or arterial.  Placing direct pressure onto the bleeding part of the wound works 99% of the time (in non-combat situations), and direct pressure can be applied for 30 - 60 minutes.  To perform direct pressure, you literally hold direct, forceful, downward pressure on the bleeding wound, in sufficient force to stop the outward flow of blood, yet not forceful enough to cut off all circulation (unless absolutely necessary).  Depending on the size of the cut and the amount of bleeding, one does not want to frequently check to see if the bleeding has stopped.  Every 20 or so minutes should suffice.

Indirect Pressure


Indirect pressure is applied by using direct force to occlude a vessel (an artery) at a point between the wound and the heart.  Best pressure points are at relatively superficial vessel location, where the vessel crosses over bone.  Locations are typically near the front of the wrist (radial), near the pit of the arm (brachial), in the antecubital space (radial), in the groin area (femoral) or behind the knees (popliteal).  Indirect pressure is generally applied after 20 or so minutes of direct pressure that does not appear to be stemming blood flow.  NOTE:  carotid pressure (applying pressure on the neck to stem blood flow to a scalp injury) is NEVER a wise move.  The appendage should be elevated while pressure is applied.

CAT/Tourniquet


Application of any type of tourniquet should be a last choice, as it is a risky, desperate move.  Because of this, only major trauma (partial loss of leg, IED's, traumatic crush injuries that do not respond to direct, indirect or chemical hemostatis) should have a tourniquet.  Tourniquets need a lot of force to work, and because of this, the risk of loss of limb is very high.  If you ever put a tourniquet on a victim, always write the time the tourniquet went on, especially if handing the victim off to another set of caregivers.  The best and most obvious way to do this is by writing tourniquet time on the victim's forehead with a sharpie.  Again, last resort of desperation.

Chemical Hemostasis


These agents are becoming more reasonable in price and availability, and are quite easy to use.  Of all of the current major brands, all appear to work fairly well

Collection and Preparation of Pine Pitch

1.  Walk through the pines - look for white-grey lumps or streams of sticky, shiny sap.  Look for recently lost limbs or animal rubs/scratches.  Resin will also ooze out of broken knots.

2.  Slip a knife under the resin lump and slice around the edges, moving the knife in a circle around the lump.

3.  Slide the knife under the bottom and pull the knife toward you to "pop" off the resin lump.

4.  Catch the lump before it hits the ground.  The less non-resin debris, the better.

5.  Compress lumps harvested, and keep in a metal container, such as a soup can.

Making Pitch


1.  Soup cans work well, with pre-punched holes in the bottom of the can.  Holes should be approximately the size of common finish nails and placed randomly.

2.  For melting the resin, use an empty tuna can.  The soup can should fit inside the tuna can, like a double-broiler.

3.  Place the tuna can, with the soup can inside, on a small fire.  NOTE:  Resin is VERY volitile.  It will turn into a high flame if you are not careful.

4.  The resin will smoke heavily as it heats up.  Take a stick and push the bark/sediment/resin slowly down to the bottom of the soup can.  Push pine resin out of straining holes into the tuna can as it melts.

5.  Once all of the resin is separated from the bark/debris, take the setup off the fire and slowly remove the soup can from the tuna can.  The cans will be very hot - use tongs, etc. to slowly lift the cans.

6.  Put the tuna can back onto the heat source and warm up the resin back to a resin state.  Stir as it liquifies.

7.  Add a filler (fire ash) to bind the resin and help strengthen the pitch.  To 1/3 tuna can resin, add 2 pinches crushed ash.

8.  Add fat, tallow, or beeswax.  This is an additive to keep the final product workable without getting too brittle when dry.

9.  Reheat and mix all ingredients with a stick.  Use a stick with a diameter of a pencil and it will become a "slow match" when you apply pitch.

10.  Keep mixing until you get the consistency of a good, thick tar.  Notice that it starts to harden quite fast.  Take a small glob and ball it up on the end of a stick.  Lick your hand to keep the pitch from sticking to them.  Knead it into an oblong shape on the end of the stick as it hardens.  When pitch is needed, light the end and allow to drip.

11.  Leftover pitch can be stored in a sealed metal container and re-melted as needed.

Harvest and Preparation of Pine Edibles

Thats right - the one thing I have kabillions of in my Personal Space - Pine Trees.  Loblolly Pines, to be exact, which isn't exactly optimal, but it grows well in sandy soil, withstands drought well, and provides year-round nutrients.

There are four food sources that the Loblolly Pine provides:

1.  Needles for making tea (although a quite bitter tea, it is full of Vitamin C).

2.  Nuts.  Not the same size pine cone nuts you see with other Pines up north, but they can be collected and are a good protein source.

3.  Inner Bark.  Again, not as tasty as some of it's cousins, and the slight turpentine taste takes a little getting used to, but it is edible.

4.  Pollen.  Not the most plentiful, but it is possible to harvest pollen to make flour.

Pine Needle Tea  NOTE:  DO NOT drink this if you are pregnant or think you may be pregnant, as it may cause miscarriage!

1.  Gather a handfull of fresh green needles.
2.  Dice the needles as fine as possible.
3.  Take the finely chopped needles and put into a cup of boiling water and let boil for a couple of minutes.
4.  The water should turn a light yellow color.  To reduce the semi-bitter taste, add honey if available.


Inner Bark.  There is some difference of opinion as to whether you can eat the inner bark of a Loblolly Pine, like you can with other pines.  While the inner bark is not as tasty as you might find with other Pines, you can eat it.  NOTE:  when cutting, NEVER completely girdle the tree, or you will kill it.

1.  Look first at mature trees.
2.  Drive knife tip through the outer bark with a strong stick.  Carve a decent sized rectangle through the outer layer.  The rectangle should be about 6 - 8 inches by approximately 4 inches.
3.  Peel away the outer bark, making sure to peel off the tender cambium layer (the inner bark) that comes with it.
4.  Scrape or cut away the inner bark.
5.  Can be prepared 3 ways:
     a.  Boiling.  Slice into thin pieces and boil until tender.  Not best tasting doing it this way...
     b.  Frying.  Slice into slivers and fry in oil/butter until medium brown and crispy.  Tastes like potato chips with salt!
     c.  Drying and pounding into flour.


Pine Nuts.  Loblolly nuts are in the cones.  They are very small, but edible.  Gather nuts from late-season cones.  The best time to harvest cone nuts is from September through October.


Pollen.  In spring, pollen from small male cones can be shaken and eaten raw or mixed 50/50 with wheat to make flour or to use as a thickener.  Collecting the pollen can be a big use of calories with little to show for it.

Edible Grasses

Although there are many types of edible grasses in East Texas, for the purposes of this section, I will focus on two that grow abundantly in my defined Personal Space:  Danedlion, and Pigweed.

Pigweed


The majority of Pigweed grows on the western side of the property, in the sunny, open spaces between tracts of pine trees.

Pigweed can be difficult to identify, especially in the early stages of seeding growth, as many species look the same.  Once mature, identification is less difficult, but not altogether straightforward.  There are several types of Pigweed that grow in East Texas, but the one with the most abundance in my Personal Space is Smooth Pigweed.

Smooth Pigweed has very small, fine hairs throughout the plant.  It's flowering structures are highly branched, and one will find both male and female flowers on the same plant.  The branches of the flowering structure are compact, usually greater than 1.5 inches long and thinner than a pencil.  At maturity, the entire plant and flowering structure are usually green or reddish purple.  The plant grows from 3 to 10 feet tall, and all parts of the plant are edible.

The young plants and growing tips of older plants make nutritious vegetables, and can either be eaten raw, or boiled.  It is generally acceptable to do 2 water changes over a 20 minute boiling time, to help cut down on the bitterness, and remove any visible spines that may be present.

Pigweed seeds can be eaten raw, cooked into grits-like consistency, or ground into flour.



Dandelion


Dandelion grows perennially throughout the sunny meadows of the property, and all parts of the plant, including the roots can be eaten.  The good thing about eating Dandelion is that there is no poisonous look-alike plants to consider.

The defining characteristic of Dandelion is the shape of the leaf.  The tip is sharply pointed, the shape is long, and there are irregular, pointy leaves.  The leaves sprout from the base of the plant and are typically 2-18 inches long.  The flower is typically open until mid-afternoon.  If you break the stem, there should be a milky-white substance inside the hollow stem.  The tap root is deep, twisted, and brittle.  Unless the plants are removed completely, they will quickly regenerate, which is good news for food searching

All parts of the plant can be eaten raw, or simply boiled like other vegetables.  The leaves are best when they are young.  The only factor to consider is that of bitterness.  Dandelion, like most other edible wild grasses, is bitter, although not terribly so.  Most of the bitterness can be cooked out of the vegetable by boiling for approximately 20 minutes, and doing at least 2 water changes during cooking time.  The downside to this is that by changing out water, you are throwing away many of the vitamins and nutrients that cook out of the plant and into the water.

Cattails: Non-food uses

1.  Pollen placed directly onto a wound can help control bleeding.

2.  Dried seed heads attached to the stalks can be dipped into melted animal fat or oil and used as torches.

3.  Dried Seed head pod contents make excellent fire tinder.

4.  The ash of burned Cattail leaves can be used as an antiseptic when rubbed directly onto a wound.

5.  Cattail leaves can be used to weave baskets, bowls, mats, etc.

6.  Adhesives can be made from the stem.

7.  Once flower spikes have gone to seed, the insides can be used for insulation, padding, and wound dressings.

8.  Oil can be derived from the seeds.

9.  It's original purpose - to clean contaminants from ponds.

Cattails as Food

Cattails have been called the "supermarket of wild foods."  Certain parts of the plant can be harvested and eaten at any time of the year.

Two words of caution regarding Cattails:

1.  Beware of where you harvest Cattails.  Cattails function in the ecosystem is to absorb toxins from water.  These toxins stay inside the plant, so be careful of where you collect.  Never collect Cattails near railroads or other roadways.

2.  Beware of a toxic, lookalike called a Water Iris.  It is difficult to tell the difference, but to determine, break off a piece of the plant from the root.  Cattail stalks are almost perfectly round, whereas Water Iris is more oddly shaped at the base.  Second, each individual leaf is wrapped completely around the base stalk with a Cattail, and it is more layered with a Water Iris.

Early Spring:  In early spring, young shoots can be eaten raw, or cooked like asparagus (steamed).  Later in spring, the green cob can be eaten like corn on the cob (eaten raw or boiled).  Beware eating these raw, however, if the stalks came from contaminated water sources.

To eat the shoots, peel back the leaves to open the stalk's center.  You eat the part where the stalk becomes white (first 5-6 inches from base).  It's best to seek the younger plants to eat the shoots.  These can be steamed, stir-fried.  You can also leave the stalk whole with the leaves wrapped, and throw the entire stalk onto hot coals, then when ready, peel the outside layers and eat the inside stalk.

To determine the part which is good to eat, if you squeeze the stalk and it makes no noise, thats the best part to eat.

These can also be dehydrated and eaten raw or in salads, etc.

Early Summer:  Pollen can be collected, and either eaten raw or used for flour.  Look for the yellow colored pod which indicates pollen.  The pollen comes of wet, and although shaking it into a plastic bag is a good collection method, do not store pollen in the plastic, as it will rot.  Pollen can be eaten raw or made into flour.  It will take a tremendous number of pollen heads to shake out enough pollen to do anything with, so eating it raw right off the stalk may be the best use of burned calories.

Late Summer:  Horn-shaped sprouts at the top of the root can be eaten (raw or boiled).

Winter:  Roots can be eaten.  To obtain the root, follow the stalk down into the muck, and into the root system, and pull the roots out from underneath.  These roots (called Rhizomes) run horizontal to the plants.  The inside of these roots (when peeled) should be white.  If it is any other color on the inside of the root, DO NOT eat it.  Cooking roots is same as above.  Also, you can make cattail flour from the roots, by scraping away the starch from the fibers, drying the starch, grinding and mixing 50/50 with wheat to make flour or a stew thickener.

Primitive Trapping Methods

Before discussing traps, a quick word about the ethics of trapping:

a.  Remove traps after use.  This isn't Ronco - don't set 'em and forget 'em.
b.  Check traps frequently.  No need to make live animals suffer longer than need be.
c.  If you kill it, eat it!

There are 4 types of animal traps I will focus on, that should benefit us in the East Texas Woodlands:

1.  Figure Four Deadfall Trap;
2.  Paiute Deadfall Trap;
3.  Mojave Bird Trap; and
4.  Spring Snare


FIGURE FOUR DEADFALL TRAP

For our purposes, these traps will focus on smaller animals, such as squirrels, possums, armadillos, raccoons, or even birds.  Prey will be based on the type of deadfall that you have available.  My personal space has turned up very little in the way of heavy rocks, but is very fruitful in the way of logs of varying size and weight.

To begin, you must have a hard, flat surface on which to set the vertical support, or the trap may only stun the prey as the deadfall pushes the vertical support into the ground (or worse, allows your dinner to get away!).  Further, the diameter size of the sticks which will become the figure four will have to be strong enough (especially the vertical and diagonal) to support the weight of the deadfall itself, yet not so thick as to prevent the trigger mechanism from setting off the deadfall when the appropriate sized animal is under the deadfall.

1.  The deadfall weight (rock, tree trunk, etc) rests on the upper end of the diagonal stick.  This supplies downward pressure to the end of that stick.

2.  The diagonal stick rests and pivots on a vertical stick, which keeps the diagonal stick from slipping away and helps hold the weight of the deadfall when the trap is set.

3.  The diagonal stick is also held in place by a notch at the end of a horizontal stick.

4.  The pressure of the diagonal stick pulls the horizontal stick away from the deadfall.

5.  The horizontal stick is held in place with the vertical stick by notches in each stick, which butts them together.  This is the actual trigger.

6.  Place bait on the end of the horizontal stick that is underneath the deadweight, so that the bait is directly underneath the deadweight.

7.  When the animal takes the bait at the end of the horizontal stick, the trigger is released.  The horizontal stick falls to the ground, the diagonal stick flips up and the weight comes down, killing the animal.




PAIUTE DEADFALL


A variation of the Figure Four Deadfall, which also uses a deadfall weight as described above, but relies on a different trigger assembly, described below.

Again, this trigger relies on a hard, flat surface on which to set the vertical support, or the trap may only stun the prey as the deadfall pushes the vertical support into the ground (or worse, allows your dinner to get away!).  Further, the diameter size of the sticks which will become the Paiute Trigger will have to be strong enough (especially the vertical and diagonal) to support the weight of the deadfall itself, yet not so thick as to prevent the trigger mechanism from setting off the deadfall when the appropriate sized animal is under the deadfall.

1.  Vertical stick:  should be strong enough to support the weight of the deadfall, and long enough to hold the deadfall at a height that will kill the animal with minimal suffering.

2.  Diagonal Stick:  Should be approximately the same dimension as the vertical stick.  The upper blunt end may be shaped as necessary to better hold or support the deadfall.

3.  Cordage:  this trigger uses string or similar cordage as part of the trigger mechanism.  This cordage should be strong enough to withstand the tension on the weight of the deadfall.

4.  Trigger Stick:  This is a short stick used as a trigger by having cordage tied to the center and it being wrapped around the support stick and set with the horizontal bait stick.

5.  Horizontal Stick:  This is the bait stick as described prior.  This component is usually longer than the vertical support stick or the diagonal stick.  This works by holding the trigger stick in place to keep it from unwrapping.  The tension braces it against the back wall of the deadfall, or in some cases to the ground.



MOJAVE BIRD TRAP


The Mojave Bird Trap is generally used to capture small, ground feeding birds that eat seeds or fruit.  The benefit of using this type of trap is that you can keep your prey alive until you eat it, using the trap itself as a cage.

To build the "cage" part of the trap:

1.  Create a square base, using 4 equally long sticks of similar diameter, approximately 2.5 feet in length.  Bind these together with cordage to create a square.

2.  Create the second square by taking 2 sticks approximately 2 inches longer than the first set and overlaying them over the base, but moving inward approximately 2 inches, then completing this second square so that the trap will begin to take on a pyramid shape.

3.  Continue as per #2 above until the top is enclosed.

4.  Use additional cordage to close the horizontal gaps.

For the trigger, use the Paiute trigger as described above, sized appropriately so that a light animal will be able to manipulate the trigger.



T-BAR SNARE

This type of snare is used for small animals that tend to use established pathways.

The first step to effectively setting this trap is to know the established travel patterns of your target prey.  You want to place this trap either along a visible travel trail, or just off that trail.  The best place to place this trap is at a natural choke line with natural vegetation effectively "tunneling" the prey toward your trap.  The second item that will need to be readily available is a sufficient spring pole.  Saplings are an obvious choice, but if none are available, one can place a sapling in the ground for a spring pole, although this just does not work as effectively.

1.  Cut two vertical sticks, approximately 24-32 inches long.  Optimally this would have two downward facing notches at a an equal height to hold the crossbar.  These can also be held in place with cordage and notching, but this is generally not as effective.

2.  Cut a horizontal crossbar, approximately 16-24 inches long.

3.  You will also need to cut a trigger stick, approximately 3 or so inches long, and thicker in diameter than the crossbar.

4.  Choose your springpole.  It will need to have enough height and spring to lift the target animal into the air, and flexible enough to bend with tension without snapping.  The tip of this springpole will have to be centered over the snare.

5.  The vertical poles will be buried and will need to be deep enough to not pull out when the spring trap is set.

6.  Cut a "7" notch into one end of the trigger stick, with the flat end of the "7" closer to the proximal end of the stick.  On the other side of the trigger stick, carve out a cordage notch groove.

7.  Tie a piece of cordage to the tip of the spring pole by tying a half-hitch, followed by 3 wraps, followed by 2 additional half-hitches.

8.  Pull the tension on the spring pole until it will rest in it's position once the trigger is set, and using this, estimate the position the trigger will need to be tied, and tie trigger to the middle of the cordage using three wraps and a square knot

9.  Use remaining free end of cordage to set the sliding knot noose, and lay the noose on the ground with the bait inside.  Be sure to tie the noose so that the trap will close the noose once the animal springs the trap, and captures the animal.

Making a Shadow Tip Compass and Sundial

Couple of key items necessary in the bush:  knowing your way, and what time it is.  For those of us without a Rolex and a high-end Garmin with built-in compass, or if your Rolex/high-end Garmin just floated down the river with the rest of your gear but not you, I offer the following:

MAKING A SHADOW-TIP COMPASS


Find a straight stick, approximately 1 meter long, and a level ground spot.

1.  Place the stick into the ground at a level spot where it will cast a distinct shadow.

2.  Mark the shadow tip with a stone or some other marker.  THIS FIRST SHADOW MARK IS ALWAYS WEST, ANYWHERE ON EARTH.

3.  Wait 10-15 minutes, until the shadow moves.  Mark this new position shadow tip with another stone or marker.  This is East.

4.  Draw a straight line through the 2 points marked to obtain your East-West line.

5.  Stand with the first mark (WEST) to your left, and the second mark (EAST) to your right.  You will be facing NORTH.

6.  Mark North-South line, and your compass is complete.



SUNDIAL


1.  Pick an open, sunny area where shadows of trees or other objects will not interfere with the sundial.  Find a place where both sunrise and sunset are visible so the sundial will record time for all daylight hours.

2.  Locate true north.  One way is to stand at night where you will place the sundial and locate Polaris (the North Star).  Push a straight stick (approximately 1 meter long and as straight as possible) into the ground at an approximate 32 degree angle (for us Texas folks), pointed to the North Star, or True North.  Place a small stone or similar marker in line with the North Star, approximately 2 inches beyond and to the north of the end of the stick.  This stone will mark 12:00 noon.

3.  Draw a straight East-West line in the dirt, approximately 2 inches south of the stick.  This line should be about 2 feet long, with one foot on each side of the stick, as centered as possible.

4.  Kneel behind the line, facing north, and place one small stone on the end of each East-West line, then 5 small stones on each side of the 12:00 marker, spaced evenly.  The small stones will form a semi-circle, with 12:00 at the top.

5.  Each stone marker is approximately 15 degrees, the distance the sun travels in 1 hour.

6.  Hour markings for the sundial, from left to right are:  6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and run from 6am to 6pm.

Sitting in My Personal Space

My one hour sitting session in my Personal Space was almost a non-event.  I got there right at 0700 hours.  I have some fairly significant hearing loss, so hearing anything clearly is sometimes a crap shoot for me.  So I sat.

The wind is blowing fairly consistently, but it's a mile breeze at best today.  I'm getting fly-by's from a bee who is just checking me out.  I can hear the birds are on high alert since I've been moving about on in the woods, and a medium sized rabbit just scared the hell out of me, jumping from the brush.  I'd say it's a better description to say that we scared the hell out of each other.  It's time to cool down and settle in.

The more still you sit, the more relaxed nature becomes, and will soon move on with it's business, almost like I'm not even there.  The smell of pine and decaying pine needles is strong, which means that theres an  abundant amount of fire tinder.

This time of day, critters are starting to move around and look for food.  The wind is blowing from the Southeast.

Squirrels do not seem to be as easily alarmed to the presence of humans as that rabbit was.  This may indicate that they will be easier to hunt.  Small ants (carpenter ants) are moving around everywhere, and I just noticed a large Fire Ant bed approximately 10 yards away.  Gotta steer clear of that.

You can hear birds, but haven't been able to see any, other than an occasional hawk flying overhead.  The movement of the leaves from the wind tends to distort the use of peripheral vision, but this may actually assist me in my own camo when hunting.

I'm also scouting a sapling for my primative spear.  Unfortunately, I haven't seen any that grow very straight.  Making this spear may be harder than I originally thought.

There is a chronic "hum" just north of my position.  Going to go check this out (later turned out to be a plywood mill approximately 1 mile from my position).

Brush in my personal space tends to be evergreens (Pine), so standard woodland camo or multicam may fit the bill for hunting.  Ground cover, however, is mostly tan, so neutral earth toned clothing may be a better choice to not be so obvious to others.

There are little native grasses under the canopy.  There is a seasonal creek that runs through the property.  I can hear some water movement from south to north.  Will follow the north side to see if a larger annual creek is nearby (later found this to be the case, approximately 1/2 mile north of my position).  Deer tracks are all pointed north, interestingly.  However, I noticed that the amount of pine needles on the ground is going to making tracking quite difficult.

It is difficult to determine the direction of birds when they are calling.  Whether this is just from my own hearing loss is unknown.

Not seeing alot of obvious sources for possible cordage; will need to look closer at this.  There are some thorny vines growing throughout - I may dry some of this out and see how it holds up.  I can always strip green bark from young saplings and weave cordage from this, but I believe it will burn a tremendous amount of calories.

Ground squirrels should be fairly easy prey.  One came within 15 feet of me sitting still.  He stopped and just looked at me.  I sat still until he relaxed and went about his business foraging.  This animal never left the immediate area, even after I intentionally moved to get his attention.  I must have seen at least 5 in one hour.

There are many saplings and plenty of shade.  It will be easy to stay out of the heat.  I question rain and mosquitoes.